This pattern is THE one!! I just tried on the mock-up with minimal boning, and my stomach is flat as a board, hips full, and no over spill!! I can not express how happy this makes me.

Before delving into the real thing, I'm going to add more boning over the hips and take in the underarm a bit...just to be sure that takes care of the wrinkling. I think it's only wrinkling because the bones are only slipped into channel tape, not securely sewn into place, but we shall see *crosses fingers*

****EDIT****
Okay, I made the boning channels taut, took in 1" total from the underarm area, and trimmed a bit from the hip. It fits great, but my little love handles are still pooking out from the lower edge of the corset-not squishing out, just sitting as they always are...so I'm going to lengthen the waist to hip from panels four through six by about 3.5" so that it will be covered and smoothed. This will not impede comfy sitting, as it is in the rear of the corset.

Ok, everyone...if I don't get this next pattern right, my head may explode. What am I doing wrong?!

Here's what-the third corset had fitting issues, but wasn't too large. Why? Because I drafted in a 5" gap instead of the 3" gap I am currently using. I thought it would be helpful because I tend to lose weight in a relatively even way. For example, last month I lost three pounds and my bust, waist, and hip measurements shrank 1". Exactly. So I figured if I lost weight while training, that the large gap would help get me more use out of the corset before I had to make a smaller model. I now know that doing this only works for an inch or two, since fit and comfort will suffer when the seams/boning channels are moved to slightly different places on the torso.

So, what to do?? All I want is a well-fitted training corset (I say this as though it's not at all difficult to achieve...). I have made mock-up after mock-up, and I'm convinced that I'm making some fundamental error.

I know I can get this right-the question is...when?!

I forgot to draft in a gap, so the mock-up closes fully *facepalm*
Also, the shape is not as dramatic as the first draft. The center front finally flattens my tummy (as much as it can), but my waist to hip ratio in the mock-up is decidedly uninspiring. Even though it's drafted for 5 inches of reduction, it looks like the shape I'd get from a prom/dance bodice-minimal reduction to prevent chafing, but nothing special.
I'm not sure how to fix this...but I plan on experimenting until I get it right.

**My camera took an unplanned turtle tank bath last week, so no pics**

Maybe when I get the mock-up right, I'll just go on with the final corset and post a YouTube video once it's finished...that could be neat :)
Will I wimp out and disable comments?

I have finished the second draft of the underbust corset pattern that I've been working on over the last few months. I hope that it will be a perfect fit :)

Below are pics of the old and new patterns, as well as a detailed breakdown of the math involved in the drafting process.
*****You may have to click on the pictures twice to be able to see them clearly.*****
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***I am starting a brand new draft of the underbust corset I was working on a few months back. The panels were so wonky from all the altering that a new pattern needed to be made for aesthetic reasons, and the fit over the hips was too narrow from my efforts to flatten center front.

***This new draft will attempt to keep the front flat while allowing the hips to curve out. I think that drafting the pattern to be straight in the front panels, then adding all the curve to side and rear hip will allow this to happen.

***Unfortunately, I lost the papers that listed the exact length of the corset at all the crucial points, so I will have to measure the mock-up to reconstruct that :(

***On a positive note, I definitely solved the overspill at center back by drafting using my full bust measurement instead of my underbust. The high back was sitting at full bust height, so the underbust measurement was simply too small.

I took in more from the waist down on the longer side of panel three, and finally achieved a flatter profile! I am so glad that this worked-I am colossally excited!
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I did some conception drawings of the underbelt I would like to make, but I am not sure how to attach it to the corset, how to fit the outer shell, or how to avoid causing indentations on my hips with the constriction. Perhaps someone who views these will have an idea.
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For those of you keeping up- these are the unexpected results of the alterations done to mock-up #1 after consulting with several expert corsetiers. I ended up trying the suggestion summed up by this pic:



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I have decided to do a 7 day cleanse before starting my waist training. As a result, I will have to redraft the corset to my new measurements after a month or two. Since the real goal of this whole procedure is to lose a few pounds, I can get a jump start by revving up my metabolism with a fruit/veggie/herbal tea/water regimen. I'm sad that I won't have the support of the corset during this time. But, I'll be a few pounds lighter, and my stomach usually goes first, so I think my next draft will allow for a flatter profile :)

WISH ME LUCK!!

*EDIT: I fixed the draft, so I will be constructing the corset as planned-no cleanse for now.

I chose
http://butterick.mccall.com/b5342-products-10257.php?page_id=678&search_control=display&list=search
for the pattern and
http://www.fabricfabric.net/images/swatches/EEE918.600x600_thumb.gif
for the fabric.

I think it will be lovely!